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‘Hol’ and ‘Pidan’: Khmer Textile Heritage in ASEAN

Cambodia or known in Thai as ‘Khmer’ is one of ASEAN members. Cambodia is neighboring country of Thailand that has shared cultural relation including textile. The purposes of this research are; 1) to investigate and collect information about ‘Hol’ and ‘Pidan’ textiles of the Khmer in Cambodia, 2) to study weaving techniques of ‘Hol’ and ‘Pidan’ textiles of theKhmer, 3) to investigate characteristics of textile design and specific weaving techniques of ‘Hol’ and ‘Pidan’ in the Khmer style. According to research documents and fieldwork, we found; 1) The Khmer practiced ‘Hol’ weaving both in the court and villages, they also weave ceremonial cloth namely ‘Pidan’. 2) The Khmer preferred to use ikat weaving technique that is known in Thai as ‘Mudmee’ and the Khmer called this cloth as ‘Hol’. There are two types of ‘Hol’; ‘Hol-Prok’ for male use, and ‘Hol-Srey’ for female use. 3) The motif design identity of ‘Hol’ and ‘Pidan’ textiles; the most popularity motif is ‘Neak’ (‘Naga’), which is derived from Khmer ancestor myth and Buddhist myth. ‘Naga’ is the holy object that Khmer people have paid homage since the old time. For the specific weaving technique, Khmer weavers preferred to use three harnesses to produce strong cloth and clear pattern. For the color identity of ‘Hol’ and ‘Pidan’ textiles, the Khmer dyers use five colors in composition, i.e., red, yellow, green, blue, and white. Thailand has association in textile heritage with Cambodia, particularly a case of ‘Hol’ of the Thai-Khmer, Suay/Gui who use Mon-Khmer language and live in the South-Isan areas. Since Ayutthaya to early Rattanakosin period, the Khmer belonged to Thailand many times. Thai court designed Khmer ikat patterns for various positions for their nobles. These textiles were called ‘Sompak-poom’ or ‘Pha Poom’, which the Thai court ordered Khmer weavers to make them as weaving tax. So, ‘Hol’ and ‘Pidan textiles of the Khmer are the evidence of cultural exchange and textile heritage that once exit in ASEAN.